Climbers

Article by: Chris Beardshaw
Publish date: 2nd October 2008

English garden styles have changed dramatically over the centuries, from the mathematical complexities of the geometric enclosure to the soft sighs of the wildly romantic vista. Although we continue to look to our ancestors for design inspiration, we are perhaps much more space challenged than in the past. No matter what theme we choose in our contemporary gardens, plans are more likely to take into consideration the growing limitations we face. Those with urban gardens or small rural plots - even those with larger gardens who may wish to utilise the space more efficiently - are turning to vertical gardening for a solution, a green façade that may take our plant specimens upwards rather than outwards. And what better plants to use than climbers?

They are some of the most versatile and adaptable of all flowering species. With an opportunistic nature they are perhaps the idlest group of plants, depending on the support of others to keep them in growth. This is not to say that they are slow to establish, on the contrary, climbers are fighters for space and light, superior competitors that will take hold of any vertical opportunity, and will give you a living wall within no time. Clematis montana is no exception to this rule and, as the fastest growing plant of its genus, will cover a surface in up to 40 feet of foliage and attractive flowers in a relatively short period.

From the rampant to the ambling, the range of climbers extends to the adorable evergreen Trachelospermum orientale, less aggressive than its clematis counterpart and a deliciously fragrant summer species that would perfectly clothe a dining terrace with its glorious scent drifting over early evening revellers. Aside from the practical aspect of putting your vertical boundaries and surfaces to use, there is a considerable amount of appeal in an arbour or trellis dripping in perfumed blooms, or a spiralling specimen tumbling down a bank or wall - and not only for the delighted onlooker. The canopies and dense foliage climbers attract hordes of wildlife to the fore, providing roosting sites for birds, and sticky nectar from their fruit and flowers for insect pollinators.

When choosing a climber, bear in mind the nature of how it grows as this will dictate the type of support it requires. The twining and twisting stems of wisteria and Trachelospermum species need the vertical posts of pergolas or wires to support them, both of which need to be of substantial strength to uphold the plants when they become heavy and established. The twisting leaf petioles and lightweight stems of clematis species, however, merely require nets or fine twig-like supports, making them very easy to train. Likewise, weaving climbers, such as fragrant Lonicera, need simple, but regular supports of thin wire. Suckers on plants such as Parthenocissus and Hydrangea petiolaris are even more effortless to establish, but beware as, due to their self-adhesive nature, they can cause permanent damage, marking walls with immovable debris. It is therefore best to support these plants for just the first few years of their life and then allow them to self-cling. Other types of climber include thorns and - like explorers navigating a mountain face - they rely on a surface to stab and climb their way to the top. However, softwood and other yielding surfaces are not necessarily reliable for thorns, so plants such as Rosa should be held up with thick twine or string.

There are several unusual varieties of climber that would add character and cascades of colour to your garden. Of Australian descent, the busy Sollya fusiformis (bluebell creeper) produces tender nodding heads of blue flowers on weak stems that require delicate handling and a warm environment, so a south-facing structure is preferable for this twining evergreen. The hardy Japanese hydrangea vine (Schizophragma hydrangeoides) is a much sturdier breed, ascending any structure its adhesive aerial roots can cling on to; fences, trees and walls burst out in masses of delicious creamy blooms from this vigorous climber. For a truly romantic appeal, Rosa banksiae 'Alba Plena' provides glorious cover to an arbour, pergola or wall that is otherwise void of interest. Lustrous foliage coils around hundreds of small white inflorescences that arrive each spring exuding an intoxicating violet aroma.

This is a rose aficionado's favourite thanks to its low maintenance, distinct absence of thorns and sheer vitality. Or, if the mood is tropical, go for Clianthus puniceus (parrot's bill), a curious-looking climber with claw-like blooms that are sometimes likened to the claws of a lobster. This evergreen shrub is of the pea family and grows well against a wall, firing out flowers of brilliant red and looking particularly bold when entwined with a Jasminum humile 'Revolutum' (Italian jasmine) that beholds bright yellow flowers all summer.

The principle challenge or problem with many climbers, particularly flowering forms, is their inherent habit of only flowering when their shoots have reached the top of their support. In the wild, climbers will battle through their supporting canopy before they flourish, so in the garden they must be trained if a consistent cover of flowers is to be achieved. To fool the plant into thinking it has reached its support pinnacle before it actually has, take young vigorous shoots and lay them horizontally on their support mechanism, or wind them around posts and pillars. Either of these techniques will encourage them to bloom at a lower level.

The joy of growing climbers not only lies in their space-saving ability, but in the fact that they are extraordinarily free from pests and disease. What usually needs to be addressed, however, is the maintenance of their vigour. To achieve this, regular pruning is essential. Wisteria requires two pruning sessions a year, one in summer to remove the lengthy fresh growth down to six buds and another in late winter, again to six buds from a main shoot. In fact, most climbers that flower on the current year's growth may be shortened to six buds.

Prune a climber as you would a shrub - removing any dead wood or twiggy stems growing in the wrong direction - but remember to tie in any new growth back to the support. Then all you need to do is sit back and observe, as you can guarantee it won't be long before you have a vertical garden laden with beautiful greenery and delectable flowers.